ACTIVE INGREDIENTS IN SKINCARE (Part 1)

Ashley Ng

27 April 2024

You may decide to buy products for your skin based on KOLs' recommendations or TikTok trends. Maybe you have the skin care savvy to scrutinize each line of the ingredient list. Or you are just getting started on your skincare journey.

No matter how advanced your skin care regimen is, doing your own research about these trends is of paramount importance to see whether they are suitable for your skin.

Active ingredients in skincare are the specially formulated compounds that will bring the targeted outcomes on the skin. These active ingredients, backed by scientific research, are responsible for treating different skin problems and providing the claimed results.
Having said that, inactive ingredients can still help with certain benefits. These are utilized as the delivery method or stabilizer for other components of the product’s formula. They could be either water or oil-based.

UBIQUITOUS ACTIVE INGREDIENTS

Retinoids

- a class of vitamin A derivatives. Retinaldehyde is considered the most active form of retinoid (Vitamin A) that does not require a prescription.
- well-known for their beneficial effects in addressing various skin concerns.
- help to accelerate skin cell turnover, therefore reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and smooth skin texture; also foster the reduction of hyperpigmentation and improve overall skin tone.
- they can be potent, should start with lower concentrations, otherwise they may result in some skin sensitivity and irritation

Vitamin C

- aka L-ascorbic acid, is a potent antioxidant
- benefits: skin brightening and boosting collagen formation, increasing skin barrier protection against UV rays and pollution.
- in various forms in skincare products. Each form may have different stability and penetration properties, but they all provide antioxidant benefits to the skin.

Hyaluronic Acid

- A naturally occurring molecule found in the skin and other connective tissues of the body
- retains moisture, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products designed to provide hydration and plumpness to the skin.
- offers benefits: including increased plumpness, skin barrier support, and soothing skin.
- is widely used in various skincare products, including moisturizers, serums, masks, and even injectable dermal fillers.
- is commonly used in combination with other active ingredients in skincare formulations to maximize its effects.

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)

- a form of vitamin B3, aka nicotinamide, an anti-inflammatory that helps to regulate sebum production, minimize the appearance of pores, and reduce the appearance of dark circles…
- Niacinamide is well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin, and is less likely to irritate compared to some other active ingredients.
- Many people incorporate niacinamide into their skincare routines to address specific concerns like enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, and skin hydration.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

AHAs are a family of water-soluble acids, well-known for their exfoliating properties and their ability to improve skin texture and appearance as well as reduce the visible signs of sun damage and age. Common AHAs used in skin care include:
- Glycolic Acid from sugar cane, has the smallest molecular size, allowing it to penetrate the skin deeply and provide effective exfoliation.
- Lactic Acid from milk, a gentle AHA suitable for sensitive skin types.
- Citric Acid from citrus fruits, provides both exfoliation and antioxidant benefits.
- Malic Acid in apples and pears, helps promote a smoother skin surface.
- Tartaric Acid from grapes and tamarinds, provides exfoliation and antioxidant properties.

As active ingredients, AHAs offer benefits such as exfoliation and overall skin texture improvement. AHAs can increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun, so be sure to use sunscreen daily to protect the skin from UV damage.

Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)

BHAs are a group of oil-soluble acids that act as exfoliating agents.
These oil-soluble acids can penetrate through lipid layers between the skin cells more readily to unclog pores.
The most commonly used BHA, salicylic acid, penetrates the pores and provides effective exfoliation. Therefore, it is highly recommended for individuals with oily or acne-prone skin. It promotes the reduction of whiteheads and blackheads, acne treatment, and exfoliation.